Hue

There are reasons that urge you to take a trip: the destination has been on your mind for a long time, you just got a new camera to practice with, and someone makes you feel like you should go sooner.

This might be a long post, because every corner of Hue is photogenic and full of information to absorb.

A Stroll in the Evening

A short flight of less than an hour brought me to Hue. From Phu Bai Airport to the city center, a visitor may not feel the essence of Hue much, as the surroundings are mostly fields and signboards indicating the location of Hue. Perhaps the first impression came from the Hue accent of the taxi driver and hotel receptionist?

After settling in, it’s time to explore Hue with my friend. The Western Quarter, located on the south bank of the Perfume River, is quite ‘lively’, perhaps the liveliest in this city, though compared to Saigon, the hustle and bustle is probably only a fifth.

On the motorbike to cross to the other side of the Perfume River is the Citadel of Hue, while the wind was breezing through Le Duan Street canopied with trees. Although driving on the biggest avenue, I still felt the tranquility of a less boisterous urban. This was also my first time testing the new camera ‘in action’, under low-light conditions.

Passing the gate to enter Dai Noi, we looked for a parking place and stopped by Ngo Mon, which was illuminated in a way that was both magnificent and charming. The roof tiles, originally yellow-orange, glowed a deep red in the darkness.

The Imperial City of Hue

If going to explore and understand more about the culture, history, and architecture of the Imperial City, then a morning might not be enough. You’ll be mesmerized by the rows of glazed tiles, the corridors painted in red and gilded, the ridges on the roofs, the motifs of two dragons flanking the moon (lưỡng long chầu nguyệt) or the four sacred creatures (tứ linh), and the decorative niches in the style of ‘one poem, one painting’ (nhất thi nhất họa), yet you still need to slow down a bit to gain a deeper understanding of each architecture, along with the process of their creation, disappearance, restoration, and revival.

Phu Van Pavilion and Nghenh Luong Pavilion

I began my tour around 7:30am, starting from the outside with Phu Van Pavilion - where imperial edicts and examination results were posted, and Nghenh Luong Pavilion - where the emperor would rest, bathe in the river, enjoy the breeze, which also served as the royal boat dock, located directly in front of the palace.

To enter, we’ll walk through one of the two main gates leading to the ticket area, which are Quang Duc Gate and Ngan Gate (The Nhan Gate). The path leading in is quite narrow, but the traffic is very orderly, allowing everyone to pass through and experience the Ngo Mon Square park for free. You can choose to buy a separate ticket to visit just the Imperial City, or purchase a combo that includes the tombs over two days at a slightly cheaper price (if you have enough time).

The Changing of the Guard Ceremony

Luckily I got to witness the Changing of the Guard Ceremony right in front of Ngo Mon as I had just purchased my ticket. The guards’ uniforms appeared vibrant under the morning April sun, which had been less gentle in Hue. This ceremony takes place daily at 8am during the summer (April - October) and at 8:30am during the winter.

Some visitors choose a photo spot from the upper floor of Ngo Mon looking down. Regardless, immersing myself in the sounds of horns and drums playing Dang Dan Cung was already very enjoyable.

Ngo Mon and Thai Hoa Palace

The first architectures visitors encounter in the citadel are Ngo Mon (Meridian Gate) and Thai Hoa Palace. The main gate of Ngo Mon was reserved for the emperor and is always closed, so we’ll pass through the two side gates and then ascend to Ngu Phung Pavilion (Five Phoenix Pavilion) to enjoy a panoramic view of the citadel.

Crossing Trung Dao Bridge spanning Thai Dich Lake leads to Dai Trieu Nghi Courtyard. This modern-day visitor was stepping on the site where the most important royal ceremonies were once held.

Tu Cam Thanh

Behind Thai Hoa Palace, passing through Dai Cung Gate is Tu Cam thanh. Looking straight towards Kien Trung Palace, you’ll see the remaining foundations - traces of the architectures that were destroyed due to turmoil long ago, namely Can Chanh Palace and Can Thanh Palace.

We can walk under the small gates to reach the gardens behind Ta Vu and Huu Vu, which is Thieu Phuong Garden, or avoid the popular photo spots to explore the nooks and crannies of Nhat Thanh Pavilion and Thai Binh Pavilion.

Quite by chance, I got to enjoy an ensemble of Hue royal court music performing their skilled melodies, or step inside to admire the serene Duyet Thi Duong Theater.

I was fascinated by the art of Hue’s ceramic-mosaic inlay on the walls and rooftops - intricate in detail, vibrant in color, and possessing a unique character that cannot be imitated.

Kien Trung Palace

The highlight of the tour is Kien Trung Palace, the northernmost point of the sacred axis. Despite being a reconstructed structure, it still allows visitors to envision the opulence and grandeur of that era, as well as the one-of-a-kind artistic personality of Emperor Khai Dinh.

As a minimalist, I’ve always admired works that embody maximalism though. It isn’t easy to arrange numerous details simultaneously while maintaining harmony and organization in the layout, meaning that when you look at it, you don’t feel like it’s a chaotic mess.

Standing either far or near, from the front or the back, every corner is worth capturing in a photo. I also took pictures for many excited foreign visitors posing in front of the palace, and overheard complaints from some wives or girls to their amateur ‘photographers’.

It’s so fortunate that such architectures had been photographed enough to serve as reference material for later restoration, rather than fading into oblivion with no one remembering their names.

Passing through the Gate to Reach the Museum

Walking east and marveling at the gates, this time it’s Hien Nhon Gate, I arrived at the Hue Museum of Royal Antiquities just as the sun was rising high. Hue’s sun was already quite harsh. I entered the museum while the staff were having lunch (with the distinctive smell of fermented fish sauce), in a quiet space because not many visitors came at this hour.

Once here, you cannot miss the chance to admire the exquisite Hue cloisonné items, which are intricately enamel-coated bronze objects, a craft that was lost after the reign of Emperor Dong Khanh.

The Royal Tombs - A World of Their Own

I chose to visit two representative tombs, Khai Dinh Tomb and Tu Duc Tomb. The royal tombs in Hue are mostly located along the banks of the Perfume River, surrounded by hills as if they’re paying homage to the tombs. The tombs were built in harmony with nature, enveloped by lush green pine groves.

Khai Dinh Tomb

From the center of Hue, following the Dien Bien Phu - Minh Mang - Dai Nam road leads to the tomb; along the way, you’ll pass by Dan Nam Giao, and when you spot the green pine groves on Chau Chu Mountain, you’re almost there.

Kien Trung Palace, Musée Khai Dinh, and now it’s Khai Dinh Tomb. In the past, the emperor was criticized for his somewhat unconventional tastes compared to contemporary traditions, but from a modern perspective, Emperor Khai Dinh played a role in shaping a distinctive architectural style, leaving behind structures that future generations can visit and admire.

The interior decoration of the tomb, like other works from Khai Dinh’s era, was a combination of both conflicting and harmonious elements of Eastern and Western styles.

The most prominent feature is Thien Dinh Palace, the main structure of the tomb, adorned with intricate ceramic and colored glass mosaics. The ceiling of Khai Thanh Hall features the mural ‘Cuu Long An Van’, which is said to have been painted using both feet and hands, and still retains its colors without the need for restoration. At the burial site of the emperor, one can see a bronze statue, above which is a royal canopy that resembles real fabric.

Tu Duc Tomb

Khai Dinh Tomb and the rest, of course. I chose Tu Duc Tomb because it’s not too far, just close to Thuy Xuan Incense Village, and certainly it has the most important point: beauty.

For me who don’t take many photos for social media, the incense village wasn’t particularly outstanding for photography, perhaps due to the sunny weather at that time and the scenery appearing somewhat drowsy.

But also thanks to that, I arrived at Tu Duc Tomb at the golden hour of the day, when the afternoon sunlight illuminated the deep green pine and frangipani trees, their reflections cast upon the surface of the lake.

The complex of Tu Duc Tomb (Khiem Lang) consists of a landscaped scenic area, a temple-residence area, and a burial area.

Xung Khiem Pavilion stands out in the middle of Luu Khiem Lake, beautiful like a painting. Visitors competed for the best photo angles, whch are the three bridges spanning the lake: Tuan Khiem, Tien Khiem, and Do Khiem.

The temple-residence area was originally where the emperor rested whenever he visited; it begins with Khiem Cung Gate leading to Hoa Khiem Palace, flanked by Minh Khiem Hall and On Khiem Hall, and ending with Luong Khiem Palace.

When I came, Hoa Khiem Palace was under renovation, so I went around to Minh Khiem Hall first. Minh Khiem Hall is one of the oldest theaters in Vietnam that still exists.

Walking a bit further north following along Luu Khiem Lake, lies the burial area - quiet and solemn with rows of mandarin statues at Bai Dinh, beyond that is Bi Dinh housing a tall stone stele inscribed with the poem ‘Khiem Cung Ky’ composed by the emperor himself.

Strolling through the tomb, I felt as though lost in a maze, as the scenery and timing had created such a brilliant reality. So many beautiful corners hid behind the walls and the groves of trees. Then me the visitor came across Kien Phuc Tomb, delighted as if I had just unearthed a treasure for my photo collection.

Rivers and Mountains, Full of Soul

Right on the first morning in Hue, I was mesmerized by the sight of a boat gliding gently on the calm water shrouded in mist, where Dap Da Bridge leads towards Vy Da.

Thien Mu Pagoda by the Perfume River

I and my friend rode along Nguyen Phuc Nguyen Street by the Perfume River, with a green strip of parkland on our left embracing the sparkling river. In Saigon, there isn’t such a river view as precious as this.

After parking our bike, we walked a short distance along the river to reach the pagoda. The scenery on the bank was bustling, while down the river it was poetic. From here, looking westward, one can see the sun gradually setting.

Entering the pagoda, we can easily spot Phuoc Duyen Tower right away, built during the reign of Emperor Thieu Tri in 1844. It might be challenging to take photos here due to everyone’s queuing up for their turn, but the deeper you go into the inner courtyard of the pagoda, the more serene it becomes. From this position, we can also enjoy a view of the Perfume River from above. Surrounding the pagoda are dense gardens, which also help to shield the cemetery area below the hill from the visitors’ eyes.

Sitting by the river, I also had the chance to try tofu. The price wasn’t too expensive, but every shop was competing for customers, making it not easy to find a quiet spot to sit.

On our way back, we saw Nguyen Hoang Bridge lit up, a bridge newly completed in 2025. Among the four main bridges spanning the Perfume River to the south of the citadel, Da Vien Bridge - where the foot of the bridge is a poetic islet of the same name - gives a very special feeling every time you ride across.

Aboard the Royal Boat

I and my friend had an hour to savor the culinary delights aboard the Ngu Thuyen Hueritage, a unique and worthwhile experience. It was a rather sunny morning, which somewhat diminished the romantic atmosphere; if it were at sunset, there would surely be nothing to be disappointed about.

The breakfast set is called Suong Thien, consisting of steamed rice rolls (banh uot), lotus-seed sticky rice with pigeon, savory crispy pancakes (banh khoai), duck noodle soup with tofu, along with fragrant tea.

From the Royal Boat, you can enjoy a special view of Truong Tien Bridge and the dragon boats moored on both sides of the riverbank.

Vong Canh Hill

How clever of whoever discovered Vong Canh Hill, where one can witness the sun setting as a red orb behind the western mountains of Hue.

The path to the hill is quite easy to find, and the hill itself is only 43m high and gently sloping, so we don’t have to exert much effort to enjoy such a wonderful view.

The river water was in a greenish hue, a boat drifted quietly amidst the misty haze of the late afternoon. On the opposite bank, Ngoc Ho Church peeked out from among the thickets of trees, picturesque like a painting.

There were a few people like me, ready with cameras to capture the sunset. Behind us, a group of students was having a picnic, breaking the serene atmosphere.

Here, there’re stone benches and public drinking fountains, making it very convenient and suitable for people of all ages to come and enjoy the view. Whether to stay until evening or not entirely depends on how easily spooked you are.

I waited patiently, and a few others did the same, but that day the sunset was quite muted due to the cloudy sky. It’s alright, as I already had enough photos.

Chan May - Lang Co

My friend drove me in the drowsy hours before sunrise to catch the dawn at Lang Co - home to Lap An Lagoon which had been trending lately for the image of a lonely withered tree standing amid the water like a mirror. In reality, it’s just a pre-arranged set by a restaurant by the lagoon.

The journey along National Highway 1A stretches almost the entire length of Hue, passing by another lagoon, a few mountain passes, and even a tunnel through the mountains. Since we chose to travel in the early hours of the morning, the vehicle moved quite swiftly. However, we occasionally had to pull over at gas stations to take a short nap. Interestingly, these gas stations didn’t sell coffee or any groceries, so there was no way to grab a quick drink to wake up or a snack.

As there’s no specific address to go by, we circled around the lagoon several times, often running into dead ends or dirt paths. But getting lost like this wasn’t meaningless at all, since there we still got to witness the sun, round as a salted egg yolk, and the fishing lift-nets across the still, silent lagoon.

No journey is ever wasted.

I asked around a bit and the locals didn’t hesitate to point us to the restaurant with that photo setup. Normally whoever wants to take pictures there has to dine at the restaurant, but since that time it wasn’t even open yet, the staff just let us in to take photos.

It truly is a beautiful spot for pictures - with a bit more preparation, I’m sure the shots could have turned out far more stunning.

We headed back to Hue along the same road as before. The sky had brightened and the road had grown busy, but every time the ride skirted past another lagoon along the way - Cau Hai Lagoon - I still couldn’t help but stop.

A Little Something Left to Remember

I wrapped up my trip to Hue with a stop by Quoc Hoc Hue, across from it stands the Memorial to the Fallen Soldiers, featuring the architecture and decoration distinctive to this city, and further down is a riverside park - every spot here is connected to one another.

In Hue, you’ll easily come across small shrines and altars out on the streets and tucked into alleyways. Because of this land’s particular history, you feel as though you’re walking through a spiritual city. In Hue, there’re specific days set aside to honor fallen soldiers, ordinary people who perished amid wartime turmoil, the Champa people who were the land’s former inhabitants, the royal ancestors, and even rites offered to heaven and earth.

In Hue, there’s no fear of running short on delicious food, thanks to the sheer variety of spices and ingredients found here, and with skilled hands preparing it on top of that, the dishes turn out all the more flavorful.

The one thing is that this city goes to sleep early, except for bustling spots like around Dong Ba Market - even stepping into a small alley just a few meters off the main road, the street has already turned quiet.

On the scale I use to judge if a place is worth traveling to, Hue would surely score close to a 10: the food, the people, and the scenery. The only variable is the weather - if you happen to visit during a pleasant time, there’s truly nothing left to worry about when it comes to Hue.